continued......

In the past it was easy to generalize about snowfall in the Kullu Valley. The staff at the Snow and Avalanche Study Establishment at Bahang (5 km N of Manali), claim that 5 m (197“) of snowfall is the annual average at 3000 m, with greater accumulations at 4000 m. However, recent years have seen unusually high variation, from 2 m (79“) to 7 m (276“) in annual accumulation at Dhundi (2840 m). North facing, leeward, upper level slopes of the most northern latitude, usually receive the highest snow accumulations.

On a personal note, the Rohtang Pass (3978 m) had a 4 m base in April 1996 (end of a big snow year), while at the same time in 1999 (poor snow year), the base was 3 m in exactly the same location. Even during years of drought and where the snowline exceeds 3000 m, accumulations are still high in certain locations.

December is commonly a volatile month for weather, with heavy snowfalls and strong winds, and offers few ski touring possibilities. Skiing can still be achieved, but generally it is confined to small hikes close to the valley and rarely up into the alpine. The beginner’s poma lift at Solang can begin operation during the Christmas period, if there is enough base to cover the slopes of the upper field. In a big season, the hills around both Manali and Vashisht can have a blanket of snow and although this is rarely skiable, it sure looks magnificent. Usually, a mix of rain and snow falls in the streets of Manali in December, a time for most ski tourers to lament that any expedition is at least a month away.

January is generally considered to be the best month for winter snow conditions as it averages the coldest temperatures with Manali’s average minimum being 2°C. When big storms arrive, the quality of snow rivals anything found in North America or Europe with light, deep powder. The snowline should extend to the valley floor (2100 m), slightly above Manali, while closer to Kullu the snowline should be considerably higher (2500 m). Despite all the epic snow conditions in January, however, there is very little touring being accomplished. Huge dumps of snow (80-100 cm in 24 hours is possible) immediately equate to high avalanche activity and physically exhausting touring conditions. Breaking trail during winter months is an endurance test like no other. A 4-hour climb in firm, spring conditions can easily take 8 hours with a foot of new snow on the ground. The unremitting roar of avalanches and icefalls fills the lower valleys, and is a constant reminder to stay alert. The ski tourer can plan on spending many down days in the valley, awaiting large storm systems to pass and then further days of waiting for the

snowpack to stabilize. Prini based, ‘Himachal Heli Skiing’ begins business in January to take advantage of the best snow conditions and the lowest snow levels. Under the cover of snow, mountain towns adopt a different but appealing character and give rise to Manali’s reputation as the ‘Chamonix’ of the Himalayas. Numbers of visitors and travellers are remarkably low and many shops are closed until late March. Ski touring tends to be confined to lower elevations, particularly around the treeline where the skiing is fantastic. It can simply be too dangerous and fatiguing to climb into the alpine and with the weather being predictably bad, venturing too far away from base may prove foolish.

February is very similar to January but with a typically deeper snowpack and slightly higher precipitation levels. Temperatures are a few degrees warmer than January, but one still must wear thermals to bed in towns like Vashisht and Solang. Manali may receive one or two short periods of snowfall, but it is much more likely to rain, with the snowline at 2500 m or higher. The rains can last for days and even weeks; catch a bus ride to Solang (which can be 10°C cooler), however, and you will be in a world of fresh snow. Tours into the alpine can be accomplished (the Jagatsukh or Rohtang Valleys for example) but the threat of avalanches confines many ski tourers to the short, forested slopes above Solang or Sethan.

March sees a huge shift in climatic and general snow conditions, with temperatures rising dramatically and the freeze/thaw cycle beginning in the later stages of the month. Interestingly, March experiences the highest precipitation averages for the winter months but most snowfalls are confined to the alpine. Early March is much like a warmer version of January or February, which can produce enormous ice shields on southern slopes. Daytime temperatures in Manali average a maximum of 21°C and a chilly 6°C minimum. March is a fantastic time to be in the Kullu Valley. If you only had one month to visit, it should be scheduled for March . You can walk the streets of Manali in a short sleeved shirt and many businesses are opening for the first time since November.

Spring comes quickly to the Kullu Valley, and other southern ranges of the Himalaya. However, winter weather can strike at any time and it is not uncommon for week-long periods of heavy snowfall and frigid temperatures to arise in April and occasionally, in May. Springtime is the best time for ski touring in India because the weather and snow conditions are far more predictable and reliable than in winter. Avalanche activity is at its lowest and the wet (corn) snow makes for fast skinning and booting. Air temperatures in the valley are truly superb, particularly in the sub-alpine towns providing many hours of blissful lounging and watching the days grow longer. When rain does come to towns like Manali (snowing at higher elevations), it often lingers for a few, miserable days and is quickly followed by a long period of warm, clear weather.

Thousands of Indians and foreigners stream into the Kullu during spring – some on pilgrimages, some on honeymoons and probably most to escape the southern heat. Northern India experiences its hottest months in May and June and Delhi averages 41°C (106°F). Looking south from the peaks above Manali, you realise that the rest of the country is baking under the hottest sun. This coincides with some of the best months for ski touring. A hot wind from the plains creeps up into the mountains by mid March and dust particles are deposited onto the snow, giving the white surface a shaded or brown colouration. A close inspection of the snow reveals it to be clustered grains and interspersed with fine dust and tiny, living organisms.

April is typically one of the prime Kullu ski touring months, but the quality depends entirely on the season. During normal and generous snow years, April is the ideal month for touring, offering safe travel conditions and pleasant weather. But arrive on a poor snow year with the snow line hovering well over 3000 m and conditions seem more suited to paragliding than skiing. Although no matter how mediocre the snow conditions appear, there is always quality skiing to be achieved in April, particularly if you are willing to walk. The Indian Army begins cutting the road into the Rohtang Valley and during drought years, they come very close to reaching the Pass by the end of the month. Daytime temperatures in Manali warm to a balmy 27°C average maximum and a 10°C overnight minimum. The snowpack is close to its maximum depth as very little melting has occurred at higher elevations. During the latter half of April, several of the higher peaks offer opportunities for a summit descent, especially in low snow years and when the larger avalanches have already released.

May can be an absolute gem or a disappointment, depending on the season. During an average Kullu snow season, May is a great time for ski touring, and is the best month for high altitude conquests. Access to most peaks is fast and uncomplicated and the highway into Lahaul, over the Rohtang Pass should be close to opening, if not already open, for traffic. The skiing revolves around predictable corn snow, which can range from rotten and atrociously suncupped, to velvet, hissing goodness that sprays up like a fan on every turn. Watch the barometer to gauge impending low pressure systems, or take a guess. The chances of receiving four days of clear, sunny skies are excellent. Avalanches can, and still do occur during May, but they are typically wet slab types that should be predictable. South to east facing chutes can often release in hot afternoons, especially under the weight of a skier. Manali’s average maximum temperature is 30°C, and the minimum is 13°C. Precipitation is normally a third of that of April.

June will never be a popular month for Kullu ski touring, as summer begins its dominance over the local climate. The snowline can rise to 4000 m and it becomes difficult finding worthwhile ski descents. Skiing is still achievable above the valley, but is confined to small drifts around the Rohtang Pass, or the rare descent of the highest peaks, such as Deo Tibba (6001 m). Other high altitude locations in India, like Ladakh, Spiti, Kinnaur or the lofty mountains of Uttarakhand are reaching their prime during June, and are often the focus for ski mountaineering endeavours. The Rohtang Pass is the centre of Kullu Valley ski touring activity throughout June, with Dhaba stalls lining the road, and tourists flooding the Pass in their hundreds, bringing industry and merriment to an otherwise bleak environment.

Rain is to be expected throughout the valley, although it often falls as wet snowflakes at the Pass. Regardless of how quickly the skiing conditions deteriorate, the cooler temperatures in the Kullu are still preferable to the stifling heat over the rest of India.

The months from July through to September are the time of monsoon rains and are a dismal, or rather pointless period for ski touring. Precipitation amounts slightly eclipse those of the winter months, with the greatest falls occurring in August. Recent years (except 2001, which saw heavy rains) have seen uncharacteristically light monsoons in the Kullu Valley, and indeed throughout India, at this time of year. It seems as though India hasn’t escaped the global trend of warmer and less predictable weather patterns.

alpine touring

ski touring India's Kullu Valley

Manali, Solang